Vegetarian Recipes for Ramen, Pho, Bibimbap, Dumplings, and Other One-Dish Meals
March 21, 2016
Volger (Veggie Burgers Every Which Way) takes on formidable opponents ramen and pho in this imaginative collection. As any noodle slurper can attest, the broth of one’s ramen is just as important as the noodles. Volger does an admirable job of handling this culinary hurdle vegetarian-style by employing kombu and dried mushrooms to achieve the deep, rich umami aspect that meat-based stocks provide. Once that’s settled, readers are on their way to creating any number of healthy Asian dishes. Those who don’t want to bother with stock-making will appreciate Volger’s many bibimbap offerings as well as rice and grain bowls. Those who prefer to make their meals from scratch will appreciate recipes and tips for homemade ramen noodles, pickled ginger, and curry paste, as well as DIY dumpling assembly. He also explains how to make the most of leftovers (rinse unused noodles under cold water, drain, and portion into resealable bags). As with most Asian recipes, readers will find that the work is all in the prep: once they have their ingredients chopped and assembled, the vast majority of Volger’s recipes come together with a minimum of fuss or effort. The bulk of the book’s ingredients are easily sourced. Though kombu and mushrooms may never completely replace the unctuous umami of their meaty brethren, these recipes sure come close to what readers may recall from their carnivorous days.
Starred review from January 1, 2016
Remarking that David Chang's restaurant Momofuku didn't offer a vegetarian ramen until ten years after it opened, Volger (Veggie Burgers Every Which Way) devotes long overdue attention to popular Asian dishes that vegetarians are typically denied. Recipes such as vegetarian curry laksa, spicy tofu bibimbap, and kimchi dumplings can include subrecipes and advance prep work, but not more than similar titles require. Akin to Andrea Nguyen's The Banh Mi Cookbook, this title lends itself to a customized experience, in which readers can choose to make all recipe components (even noodles) from scratch, or swap some for store-bought items. Volger's flavor combinations, mostly nontraditional, are satisfyingly complex. VERDICT A go-to cookbook for Asian-inspired vegetarian soups, noodle bowls, and dumplings.
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